![]() Part of the plan is to upgrade to headlight relays and heavier guage wiring. I have been pretty seriously studying some of this stuff since I just finished overhauling the dash wiring harness in my '68 and am about to proceed to the engine and front lighting harnesses. The bulb can be checked out with an ohm meter for continuity.Ĭlick to expand.Thanks for the compliment, I was a bit concerned that it probably read a bit heavy handed. Note that by definition that if you track and have power all the way to the headlight and the light still does not work, you have either a burned out bulb or a ground problem. ![]() ![]() If it all checks out then proceed to use the same process on the power side of the relay. Use the same upstream to downstream process but start with the control side of the relay first. for example your headlight circuit may have power switching relays. This way you should be able to bracket components in the circuit and identify which one is the real problem. Continue to check each junction down the circuit until you get the headlight. If you still have power there proceed to the next junction, probably at the firewall bulkhead connector. If good check dimmer switch high and low outputs. If good proceed to the dimmer switch input. If so then proceed to find power on the headlight output on the switch. In this case that means make sure you really have power to the headlight input on the switch. Next start at the beginning and work towards the end, or put another way: start from known good until you find bad. Start by getting a circuit diagram for your year car so you have a roadmap of where you are going. The latter fact can lead to some interesting circuit designs in the name of fault tolerance and redundancy. Does not apply, the headlights are on a completely seperate circuit because A) they pull a *lot* more current and B) they are a much more critical problem if they just go out. Or you can simplify life and work through the problem step by step until you find the real problem.įor starters forget about the parking lights. You can make electrical systems complicated by taking a shotgun approach of replacing whatever until it works. I have been at this for days now, so ANY help woyld be GREATLY appreciated. One concern that i have is that i discovered that about 1/2 of the passenger side harness has been purposely cut just before it crosses from the inside to the engine compartment (but i think most of that controls A/C which has has all been previously removed from this car) Because none of the cut wires were capped, i suspect that this is what had blown those 4 fuses.Īre there headlight relays or something else that i have not tested that could be causing this prob? if so.where might i find it/them? Unfortunately i can't read any of the white lettering on the fuse panel so i don't know exactly which one is for the headlights, but since i have filled all burnt/empty spots with 20 A fuses, i am sssuming that it shouldn't be a prob. I just bought an 82 and while there were numerous little problems, the one that i can't seem to solve is the headlights.ġ) when i pull the headlight switch all the way on, the only thing that is on is the parking lights (none of the 4 headlights come on).Ģ) since one outter headlight was broken i replaced it so that i'd at least have 1 good headlight (so that i knew that they were not all burnt) I also tested to see if there was power going to the light plug.and there was none.ģ) I discovered 4 burnt fuses, so i replaced them all, but sadly, the headlights STILL don't workĤ) I changed the headlight switch with one that i know works and still only the parking lights will turn on.ĥ) i have followed the harnass from the right side all the way to where it enters the firewall and everything looks good.
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